FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE
Abbot Kinney Blvd — 'Coolest Block in America' food evolution
Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice, Los Angeles, was named GQ’s “Coolest Block in America” in 2012 [3]. The street’s food economy has undergone three distinct phases: a pre-2008 era of local institutions, a 2008–2014 chef-driven wave, and a post-2015 luxury-retail saturation driven by rising rents.
Pre-2008 Era Before the 2008 boom, Abbot Kinney was home to long-standing local spots. Hal’s Bar & Grill opened in 1987 and closed in April 2015 [5]. Joe’s Restaurant closed in February 2016 [5]. Abbot’s Habit coffee shop operated for 24 years before closing due to high rents [5]. Just Tantau boutique opened eight years before the street was renamed Abbot Kinney and closed in early 2014 [5]. The Roosterfish, a gay bar, has served the community for over three decades [10].
2008–2014 Chef-Driven Wave In 2008, Gjelina opened at 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., serving locally-sourced, produce-forward food from a wood-fired oven [2][8]. Chef Travis Lett’s “nouveau-peasant fare” [3] and the restaurant’s “eat local” ethos [2] anchored the street’s transformation. That same year, AK Restaurant opened at 1633 Abbot Kinney [9], followed by The Tasting Kitchen in 2009 [9]. In 2008, Roy Choi’s Kogi BBQ truck launched on Abbot Kinney, fusing Korean and Mexican flavors and sparking the gourmet food truck movement [1]. The 2014 film Chef was inspired by Kogi and featured Abbot Kinney’s First Friday food-truck scene [4]. David Wolfe, executive chef at FEED on Abbot Kinney in 2014, was an early adopter of Santa Monica Farmers Market sourcing and is credited as the original creator of the Korean taco [7].
2015-Onward Luxury-Retail Saturation After the GQ article, landlords demanded “fantastic rent increases” [3]. Rising rents forced closures of Abbot’s Habit, Just Tantau, Hal’s Bar & Grill, and Joe’s Restaurant [5]. Jin Patisserie was replaced by Kreation Kafe, a juicery [3]. Glencrest Bar-B-Que gave way to higher-end Pork Belly’s Sandwich Shop [3]. Google arrived in Venice in 2011, moving 400+ employees into a campus near the beach [3]. High-end farm-to-table restaurants advanced onto Rose Avenue [3]. Later openings included Felix Trattoria (Evan Funke’s pasta), The Butcher’s Daughter (vegetarian), and Erewhon market [10]. The Gjelina Group expanded to include Gjelina Take Away, Gjusta, and a hotel [8].
Food Economy Shift The food economy shifted from affordable, community-oriented eateries to chef-driven, high-end concepts and luxury retail. As rents rose, independent businesses were replaced by national chains and upscale boutiques like Aesop, Everlane, and Keetsa [3][10]. The street’s identity evolved from a bohemian stretch to a destination for affluent dining and shopping, with the GQ designation accelerating the transformation [3][10].
Sources
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Choi
- https://www.latimes.com/la-virbila-restaurants2008-pg-photogallery.html
- https://thebaffler.com/salvos/break-on-through-abbot-kinney
- http://www.deependdining.com/2014/05/chef-movie-serves-up-las-food-journey.html
- https://www.argonautnews.com/news/local-history-s-days-are-numbered/article_4d120ff0-7bfa-5957-b8b9-3f22de0b22c3.html
- https://chefdavidwolfe.wordpress.com/2014/08/30/chef-david-wolfe/
- https://www.gjelina.com/
- https://www.chefdb.com/addr/15072
- https://www.timeout.com/los-angeles/things-to-do/la-city-guide-the-best-food-drink-and-shopping-on-abbot-kinney