Select language

DELICIOSO · AN LA ATLAS OF FOOD ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE · PUBLISHED May 8, 2026 ↘ Open in app

FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE

Experimental Oaxacan-Japanese fusion in LA

In Los Angeles, the Oaxacan-Japanese fusion category is led by chef Andrew Ponce at A Ti in Echo Park, a Mexican tapas restaurant with Japanese touches [1]. Ponce’s menu succeeds by weaving Japanese techniques and ingredients into Mexican forms without forcing novelty. The bluefin tuna sashimi atop a crunchy tostada with lemon aioli and salsa negra [1] and kampachi crudo with crunchy honey crisp apples [1] are clear successes—clean, bright, and balanced. The crispy duck mole sweetened with date mole [1] leans into Oaxacan tradition while the date sweetness nods to Japanese umami. The al pastor taco with pineapple [1] is a classic, while the striped bass taco with Japanese Kewpie mayonnaise [1] and Japanese sweet potato satsumaimo taco [1] show thoughtful cross-cultural mashups. The crispy chicken skin chicharrones with Cool Ranch dust [1] and chorizo, clams and grilled bread [1] feel more gimmicky—snacky items that don’t deepen the fusion. The lamb neck birria at $50 [1] is a high-end take on a regional Mexican staple, but its Japanese connection is unclear. A Ti avoids the worst pitfalls of fusion by grounding dishes in Mexican technique (tostadas, tacos, moles) and using Japanese elements (sashimi, Kewpie, satsumaimo) as accents rather than gimmicks. The restaurant serves dinner Wednesday through Sunday at 1498 Sunset Blvd. [1].

Sources

  1. https://www.theeastsiderla.com/news/daily_digest_evening_edition/inventive-mexican-japanese-fusion/article_bfe88b2a-c937-11ef-a267-6bc540976b87.html