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DELICIOSO · AN LA ATLAS OF FOOD ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE · PUBLISHED May 8, 2026 ↘ Open in app

FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE

Highland Park coffee scene — Cafe de Leche, Tierra Mia, Civil Coffee

Highland Park’s specialty coffee evolution illustrates the tension between third-wave coffee gentrification and Latino-owned resilience. The neighborhood’s coffee landscape shifted dramatically after 2000, when the white population increased by 42% and the Latino population declined by 13% [1]. By 2014, York Boulevard had become a hip corridor of cafes and $5 cold brews [5], with new coffee shops serving as symbols of gentrification [2].

Cafe de Leche (opened 2008) is a Latino-owned survivor that predates the wave [6]. In 2014, it was targeted by faux eviction notices protesting its role in displacement [6]. Despite the pressure, it remains open, and some longtime residents, like photojournalist John Urquiza, support it exclusively for its espresso [6].

Civil Coffee (opened 2014) and Kindness & Mischief represent the third-wave influx. While not detailed in the sources, their arrival alongside other upscale businesses—like Highland Park Bowl with $60/hour bowling [5]—signaled the neighborhood’s transformation. New restaurants such as Hippo and Cafe Birdie attracted a wealthier, whiter demographic than legacy spots like Follieros and Las Cazuelas [6].

Tierra Mia Coffee (5219 N Figueroa) serves as the Latino-owned counterweight. Founded in 2008 by Ulysses Romero, a Mexican immigrant’s son with an MBA from Stanford, Tierra Mia opened its first location in South Gate [8][9]. It roasts its own beans and bakes its own pastries [9], sourcing premium beans from Intelligentsia and Stumptown [8]. Its menu is rooted in Latino flavors: horchata latte, mocha Mexicano, coco loco latte, and mazapan peanut frappe [7][10]. The shops feature leather couches, granite counters, and a soundtrack of rock en español [8]. Pulitzer Prize-winning critic Jonathan Gold described Tierra Mia as a third-wave concept offering ‘the world’s best beans’ [9]. By 2025, the chain operated 20 locations across California [9], maintaining its Latino identity while specialty-coffee tourism grew. Romero’s philosophy—‘El mejor café viene de tierra mía’ (The best coffee comes from my land)—anchors the brand in cultural pride [8].

Sources

  1. https://www.adamkirchoff.com/writing/some-highland-park-businesses-prosper-despiteand-maybe-because-of-gentrification
  2. https://2urbangirls.com/2025/03/can-highland-park-survive-gentrification-without-losing-its-identidad/
  3. https://www.latimes.com/opinion/story/2020-03-10/highland-park-hipsters-gentrification
  4. https://lataco.com/restaurants-gentrification-highland-park
  5. https://sca.coffee/sca-news/25-magazine/issue-5/latin-influence-25-magazine-issue-5
  6. https://stanfordmag.org/contents/coffee-con-cultura
  7. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tierra_Mia_Coffee
  8. https://tierramiamenu.com/