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DELICIOSO · AN LA ATLAS OF FOOD ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE · PUBLISHED May 7, 2026 ↘ Open in app

FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE

Black-women-led Soul Food institutions in LA

The Los Angeles Soul Food economy has been profoundly shaped by Black women’s labor, entrepreneurship, and multi-generational family succession. Key examples include:

  • Lovie Yancey founded the Fatburger chain in 1947, starting with a three-stool stand in South Central LA. She worked 16-hour days, retained the original location after a partnership split, and grew it into a national franchise. She also established a $1.7 million endowment for sickle-cell anemia research [2].
  • Mary and Adolf Dulan co-founded Aunt Kizzy’s Back Porch in Marina Del Rey, a celebrated soul food restaurant that operated for 35 years. Their daughter Tiffany Dulan later left her career to manage the family business, exemplifying multi-generational female leadership [3][4].
  • After Adolf Dulan’s death in 2017, the Dulan’s Soul Food Kitchen chain (two locations) passed to his son Terry Dulan, but the broader Dulan family network includes Greg Dulan leading a third location (Dulan’s on Crenshaw) for 35+ years. The family has hired over 2,000 minority workers and donated over $50,000 in food to cancer research [4].
  • The Dulan legacy began with Adolf learning from his mother’s farm cooking in Oklahoma, a direct line of women’s culinary knowledge transmission [4].

These cases show Black women as founders (Yancey), co-founders and operators (Mary Dulan), and next-generation managers (Tiffany Dulan), with labor that built iconic LA institutions and sustained community economic networks.

Sources

  1. https://www.laconservancy.org/learn/historic-places/watts-coffee-house/
  2. http://www.blackpast.org/aaw/lovie-yancey-1912-2008
  3. https://blacklosangeles.wordpress.com/2011/04/27/14/
  4. https://www.dulans-sfk.com/about-us