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DELICIOSO · AN LA ATLAS OF FOOD ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE · PUBLISHED May 8, 2026 ↘ Open in app

FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE

Koreatown redevelopment, gentrification, and family-business displacement

Koreatown family restaurants have adapted to rising rents through a mix of ownership models, pandemic-era rent negotiations, and operational pivots, but many have not survived.

  • Owner-occupied vs. tenant status: Soot Bull Jeep survived while others closed, suggesting it may have had a more favorable ownership or lease structure, but this is not confirmed in the provided sources [2].
  • Rent pressure and closures: Rising commercial rents, along with LA’s $15 minimum wage and increased food costs, have been cited as key factors in closures. Nak Won Restaurant closed in 2020 after 34 years, partly due to pandemic financial challenges and rising expenses [2]. Dong Il Jang closed in 2020 after 41 years [1]. Beverly Soon Tofu closed in 2020 [2]. Hodori closed in 2018 [2].
  • Adaptation strategies: Some restaurants attempted delivery and takeout systems (e.g., Nak Won) but found it insufficient [2]. Others tried outdoor dining setups [2]. A notable case is Koreatown Plaza, where landlords demanded previously waived rent from tenants, indicating that rent deferrals were used as a temporary adaptation but later became a source of conflict [3].
  • Survival: Soot Bull Jeep is mentioned as having survived, but the sources do not detail how it adapted [2].

Open questions: The sources do not provide a comprehensive list of which restaurants are owner-occupied vs. tenants, nor do they detail specific financial arrangements or long-term adaptation strategies beyond the pandemic period. To fully answer, one would need property records or interviews with restaurant owners about their lease terms and ownership status.

Sources

  1. https://la.eater.com/2020/8/3/21352752/dong-il-jang-koreatown-korean-restaurant-closing-41-years
  2. https://la.eater.com/2020/10/1/21497393/nak-won-restaurant-closing-koreatown-los-angeles
  3. https://www.koreadailyus.com/koreatown-plaza-faces-controversy-over-demand-for-previously-waived-rent/