Next-generation Iranian-American chefs in LA

The new wave of Iranian-American chefs in Los Angeles is reinterpreting Persian cuisine through a fine-dining, chef-driven lens, distinct from the traditional, family-run kebab houses of the older Tehrangeles generation. Key figures and restaurants include:

• Ori Menashe at Bavel (and its sister restaurant Saffy’s): Menashe’s approach is documented in a Bon Appétit feature that calls Bavel “L.A.’s Biggest Opening” and details the meticulous, chef-driven process behind the menu ^[3]. This contrasts with the more casual, family-style model of older establishments.
• Saghar Fanisalek at Azizam in Silver Lake: Azizam is cited as part of a “new generation of Persian restaurants that interprets the cuisine through their own lens” ^[1].
• Farinaz and Farbod Pirshirazi at Perse in Brentwood: The brother-sister team, who also run the more casual Toranj in Westwood, opened Perse as an “upscale destination” that “aims to explore a broader culinary canon of traditional Persian cooking and flavors” beyond the typical kebab focus ^[1]. The menu features dishes like wagyu kebabs, tart fesenjoon, and a “Tehranmisu” dessert, served in a “sophisticated dining room with white tablecloth–topped tables” ^[1].
• Homa (chef not named in source): The restaurant’s website describes it as a modern concept, though specific chef details are not provided in the excerpt ^[2].

How they treat heritage cuisine differently from the immigrant-founder generation:

• Broader culinary exploration: While older restaurants like Raffi’s Place and Sadaf focus heavily on kebabs, the new wave “aims to explore a broader culinary canon” of regional Persian dishes ^[1]. Perse, for example, offers gormeh sabzi, duck confit, and caviar tartlets alongside grilled meats ^[1].
• Fine-dining presentation and setting: These new restaurants adopt a “more sophisticated” or “modern-chic” aesthetic with upscale interiors, custom wine cellars, and white tablecloths, moving away from the casual, family-dining atmosphere of traditional establishments ^[1].
• Chef-driven, personal interpretation: The new generation “interprets the cuisine through their own lens,” drawing on personal memories and regional upbringing to create dishes that are not strictly traditional but are inspired by heritage ^[1]. This is a shift from the immigrant generation’s focus on faithfully recreating the familiar dishes of their homeland for a community audience.
• Fusion and innovation: Dishes like “Tehranmisu” (a pistachio, espresso, and mascarpone dessert) and cocktails like the “Persian Old Fashioned” with cardamom tea demonstrate a willingness to blend Persian flavors with global fine-dining techniques and formats ^[1].