FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE
Far East Plaza renaissance — Howlin' Ray's + Ramen Champ
Far East Plaza (727 N Broadway) is a two-story 1979 building in Los Angeles’ Chinatown that underwent a dramatic food-tenant renaissance between 2013 and 2018, transforming from a run-down shopping center into a chef-incubator hub [1][3]. The catalyst was Roy Choi’s Chego, which opened in spring 2013 after Choi lost his Palms lease and was recruited by George Yu, vice president of owner Macco Investments Corp. and executive director of the Chinatown Business Improvement District [1][2][3]. Yu, who helped build the plaza in 1978, deliberately courted emerging chefs by offering low rents (around $3.75–$4/sq ft) and flexible terms, turning the plaza into a stepping stone for food-truck and pop-up concepts [1][2][4].
Key tenants that arrived during this period include: Scoops ice cream (early 2014), Pok Pok Phat Thai by Andy Ricker (2014), Alvin Cailan’s Ramen Champ (late 2014, later sold), Cailan’s incubator kitchen Unit 120 (opened January 2016), Amboy Filipino (January 2016), Endorffeine coffee by Jack Benchakul, and Howlin’ Ray’s Nashville hot chicken (debuting as a food truck in 2016 before settling into the plaza) [1][2][5][7]. LASA, a Filipino restaurant by Fil-Am chefs, also operated at Unit 120 [6]. Burgerlords is mentioned as a new restaurant elsewhere in Chinatown, not within the plaza [1].
As of the sources, Howlin’ Ray’s remains in Far East Plaza (with a second Pasadena outpost opened in 2022), while Chego closed after a brief run [7]. Ramen Champ was sold, and Unit 120 continues as an incubator space [1][5]. Older tenants like Kim Chuy noodle house, Ten Ren’s Tea Time, Wing Hop Fung, and Mary’s Beauty Salon (28-year tenant) still operate alongside the newcomers [1]. Former notable restaurants include Mandarin Deli, Pho 79, and Sam Woo Barbecue [1]. The plaza’s sign still reads ‘Food Center,’ a remnant of its original all-food-unit history [1].
Sources
- https://www.ladowntownnews.com/news/how-an-aging-chinatown-mall-became-a-hipster-food-haven/article_b407e372-f2c3-11e5-a794-e70f2ee0afe3.html
- https://la.eater.com/2016/3/28/11318662/chinatown-far-east-plaza-george-yu
- https://www.pbssocal.org/shows/the-migrant-kitchen/the-past-present-and-future-of-chinatowns-changing-culinary-landscape
- https://mhsanchor.org/healthleisure/2016/10/17/far-east-plaza-a-chinatown-food-heaven/
- https://www.usatoday.com/story/travel/experience/food-and-wine/2016/12/20/los-angeles-far-east-plaza-food/95429852/
- https://asianjournal.com/tag/far-east-plaza/
- https://la.eater.com/dining-report/298777/howlin-rays-los-angeles-review