FEATURED ENTRY · CHEF-GENEALOGY
Roy Choi and the Kogi tree
Roy Choi is the chef who made the food truck a legitimate vehicle for serious cooking — and, more broadly, the chef who put a name to a Los Angeles flavor that had always existed on the street but never on a menu. Korean-American, raised in LA, a Culinary Institute of America graduate who did time in hotel kitchens before washing out of that track, Choi launched Kogi BBQ in late 2008 with partners Mark Manguera and Caroline Shin-Manguera: a truck selling Korean short-rib tacos, kimchi quesadillas and salsa-on-galbi, its location announced on Twitter [1][2][3]. That detail — a roving restaurant coordinated in real time over social media — is why food historians treat Kogi as the start of the modern food-truck era. Within a couple of years the format had been copied in every American city with a downtown.
Choi then did what almost none of the imitators managed: he converted truck momentum into a durable brick-and-mortar group, and he kept widening the aperture — from Korean-Mexican street food, to Caribbean, to Korean-American fine-ish dining, to a serious attempt at reinventing fast food itself with Locol [1][4]. Along the way he became a public figure — memoir (L.A. Son), a Netflix series (The Chef Show with Jon Favreau, after consulting on Chef), and a consistent voice on food, race and class in LA.
Direct ventures
- Kogi BBQ (2008–) — the original taco trucks; later a fleet, plus Kogi Taqueria (a sit-down location in Palms) [1][3].
- Chego — pork-belly and other rice bowls; opened in Palms, later moved to Far East Plaza in Chinatown [1].
- A-Frame (Culver City) — a “modern picnic” room known for its beer-can chicken [1].
- Sunny Spot (Venice) — Caribbean; since closed [1].
- POT — restaurant, lounge and café at the Line Hotel in Koreatown; Korean-American comfort food [1].
- LocoL (Watts, opened MLK Day, January 2016 – closed August 2018) — co-founded with Daniel Patterson of Coi in San Francisco; an attempt to deliver fresh, affordable fast food in under-served neighborhoods; named a Food & Wine best new restaurant of 2016. Additional locations opened and closed in Oakland and the LA Hyde Park area; the Watts flagship closed in 2018 [1][4].
- Best Friend (Park MGM, Las Vegas) — a Koreatown-in-a-casino concept; Choi’s largest fine-casual statement [1].
Alumni / mentees
Choi’s lineage works less through named protégés than through a wave and a pipeline. The Korean-Mexican / “K-Mex” cohort of LA pop-ups and trucks that followed Kogi — and the broader normalization of cross-cultural street food as something a critic would review seriously — is the most direct inheritance [1][2]. The food-truck-to-storefront pipeline he modeled (build a following mobile, then anchor it) became a standard LA path. He has also been an active mentor and convener for younger LA chefs, particularly chefs of color, both informally and through community work tied to Locol and to South and East LA. Specific named-protégé documentation in English-language press is thin; Daniel Patterson is best understood as a peer-collaborator, not a mentee. (Further sourcing welcome on where the Locol kitchen staff landed after 2018.)
What the tree means
The through-line is a particular Los Angeles voice: Korean-American by way of Mexican-American by way of the city’s street, cooked with the technique of someone who trained in fine kitchens but rejected their gatekeeping. Kogi’s premise — that a $2 taco off a truck can be as carefully built as a tasting-menu course — runs through everything that follows, including Locol’s insistence that “fast” and “good” and “affordable” should not be mutually exclusive in a poor neighborhood. So the tree is as much an argument as a style: food as a way to redraw who gets access — to good ingredients, to a critic’s attention, to a kitchen career. Whether or not a given Kogi-descended restaurant survives, that argument is the inheritance.
Sources
- Roy Choi — Wikipedia; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Choi
- Roy Choi CIA alumni bio — Culinary Institute of America; https://www.ciachef.edu/cia-bios/roy-choi/
- Kogi BBQ — official site; https://kogibbq.com/about-chef-roy/ (see also Kogi Korean BBQ — Wikipedia; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kogi_Korean_BBQ)
- LocoL — the Daniel Patterson / Roy Choi healthy-fast-food project; opened in Watts on MLK Day, January 18, 2016; Food & Wine named it a best new restaurant of 2016; additional locations in Oakland and the LA Hyde Park area; the Watts flagship closed August 2018 — Wikipedia 'Locol' https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locol ; PBS SoCal 'Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson Open LocoL in Watts' https://www.pbssocal.org/food-discovery/food/roy-choi-and-daniel-patterson-open-locol-in-watts ; LA Magazine 'Inside Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson's Quest to Transform Fast Food' https://lamag.com/news/fast-food-remedy/ ; official site https://welocol.com/