FEATURED ENTRY · CULTURAL-NOTE
SGV Taiwanese corridor — beef-noodle, popcorn-chicken, breakfast
The San Gabriel Valley (SGV) is home to one of the largest Taiwanese diaspora clusters in the United States, a direct result of affluent Taiwanese immigrants (waisheng ren) settling in Monterey Park and nearby suburbs from the 1970s onward, coinciding with white out-migration [1]. This community has shaped a distinct breakfast, late-night, and snack vocabulary rooted in Taiwan’s own culinary evolution. Traditional Taiwanese breakfast—originating from Chinese migrants in Yonghe, New Taipei City in the 1950s—combines Chinese-origin items like clay oven rolls (shaobing), fried dough sticks (youtiao), green onion cakes, and sticky rice rolls into a uniquely Taiwanese menu [6]. The first 24-hour breakfast shop, World Soy Milk, opened in Yonghe in the 1970s, establishing a template for round-the-clock dining that persists in the SGV [6]. In Monterey Park, Huge Tree Pastry serves classic Taiwanese breakfast: deep-fried cruller with soy milk, scallion pancakes, and fan tuan (rice rolls) [2]. Late-night and snack culture is anchored by boba (bubble tea), a cultural touchstone of the ‘626’ area code, and the 626 Night Market in Arcadia, a mecca for Chinese food enthusiasts [1]. Taiwanese restaurants across the SGV offer beef noodle soup (the national dish), green onion pancakes, and boba drinks [2]. Notable spots include Dai Ho in Temple City for beef noodle soup with bouncy ‘Q’ noodles [2]; SinBala in Arcadia for Taiwanese street food with sweetish sausages topped with garlic, Sichuan peppercorns, and mangoes [2]; and JJ Bakery (multiple SGV locations) which started in 1996 making only Taiwanese breads [2]. Half and Half Good Old Time in San Gabriel serves Taiwanese cafe comforts with crushed ice and honey boba under $4 [2]. The diaspora also influences LA beyond the SGV: JOY in Highland Park offers regional Taiwanese cooking inspired by Taipei night markets, including minced pork on rice and thousand-layer pancake, and even bakes Mexican wedding cookies as an homage to the location’s heritage [4]. Pine & Crane DTLA serves Taiwanese fare with breakfast hours from 8am to 11am, extending the all-day breakfast concept [5]. Liu’s Cafe (Koreatown and Westwood), a Michelin Bib Gourmand winner, serves Chiayi chicken rice and Hong Kong-style French toast, reflecting the cross-pollination of Taiwanese and Hong Kong street food [3]. This network of eateries has made terms like ‘fan tuan,’ ‘danbing’ (egg crepes), ‘shaobing,’ and ‘boba’ part of the SGV’s everyday food vocabulary, available from early morning to late night.
Sources
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_American_enclaves_in_the_San_Gabriel_Valley
- https://la.eater.com/maps/los-angeles-best-taiwanese-restaurants-la-taiwan
- https://liuscafe.com/
- https://www.joyonyork.com/
- https://www.pineandcrane.com/dtla
- https://www.taiwanobsessed.com/taiwanese-breakfast/