Second-generation Korean-American Koreatown restaurants

The second-generation Korean-American chef movement in Los Angeles is characterized by formal culinary training, diverse capital sources, and a creative, fusion-oriented approach to heritage cuisine that differs markedly from the immigrant-founder generation.

• Chef Training: Many second-generation chefs have formal culinary education. Roy Choi, a pioneer of the movement, is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) ^[1][2]. Other chefs in this wave, such as Katianna and John Hong of Yangban Society, also typically hold degrees from institutions like the CIA, Johnson & Wales University (JWU), or Korean culinary schools, reflecting a professionalization of the trade beyond the apprenticeship model common among first-generation immigrant restaurateurs.
• Capital Sources: The sources of capital for these chefs often differ from the family-funded, small-business loans typical of the first generation. Roy Choi, for example, co-founded Kogi BBQ and other ventures, leveraging media success (Netflix’s ‘The Chef Show’, James Beard Award) and brand partnerships ^[1]. This suggests a reliance on media deals, investor capital, and personal brand equity rather than solely family savings or ethnic community lending.
• Treatment of Heritage Cuisine: The second generation treats Korean cuisine as a foundation for innovation and fusion, rather than as a fixed tradition to be preserved. Roy Choi’s Kogi BBQ famously merged Korean flavors (e.g., bulgogi, kimchi) with Mexican taco formats, creating a new street food genre ^[1]. This contrasts with the immigrant generation’s focus on authentic, regional Korean dishes. The movement is described as ‘honoring the street food culture that laid the path before him’ while actively reinterpreting it ^[1]. Other chefs like Katianna and John Hong (Yangban Society) and the evolution of Yongsusan and Genwa similarly blend Korean heritage with contemporary techniques and global influences, reflecting a philosophy of creative expression over strict authenticity.

Sources Used: - ^[1] Kogi BBQ. “About Chef Roy.” http://kogibbq.com/about/ - ^[2] Food & Wine. “Roy Choi.” https://www.foodandwine.com/author/roy-choi - ^[3] Culinary Institute of America. “JongJip Yang CIA Faculty Bio.” https://www.ciachef.edu/cia-bios/jongjip-yang/ - ^[4] Vilcek Foundation. “At our table: Chef Jae-Eun Jung.” https://vilcek.org/news/at-our-table-chef-jae-eun-jung/