Second-generation chefs interpreting heritage cuisines

The second-generation chef-restaurateur movement in Los Angeles is defined by chefs who draw on their family’s culinary heritage while innovating within fine-dining or fusion formats. Key examples include:

• Korean-American: At Lapaba, husband-and-wife team McKenna Lelah and Matthew Kim (Kim’s parents immigrated from Korea) infuse regional Italian dishes with Korean ingredients, such as jjajang Amatriciana and cacio e pepe tteokbokki. Lelah states the dishes are “regional Italian with Korean influence,” aiming to be “respectful to the dishes and respectful to the neighborhood and culture” ^[2].
• Afro-Caribbean/African diaspora: Chef Cleophus Hethington at Lucia honors Afro-diasporic foodways through themed menus (Africa, Afro-Latino, Caribbean, Black America), offering refined takes like egusi agnolotti and cornbread gnudi in smoked turkey broth. He emphasizes honoring “all parts of the Black foodways” and showing how “connected the African diaspora is” ^[3].
• South LA community training: The SoLa Foundation’s Kitchen to Capital program trains young adults (ages 18-24) from underserved communities, with mentorship from chefs like Keith Corbin (Alta Adams). The program focuses on job placement and sovereignty, not heritage cuisine per se, but represents a parallel movement of second-generation opportunity ^[1].

Balancing heritage authenticity vs. creative interpretation: Chefs navigate this by grounding dishes in traditional techniques or ingredients while adapting them to new contexts. For example, Lapaba’s Kim and Lelah start from Italian regional dishes and add Korean elements (e.g., doenjang Caesar, gochugaru sausage), ensuring the base remains recognizable ^[2]. Hethington at Lucia uses classic African diaspora dishes (ndolé, red red, sweet potato pie) but refines them with modern techniques and cross-cultural fusions (collard green kimchi) ^[3]. The goal is respect and education, not strict authenticity.

What “second-generation cuisine” means in 2026: It signifies a deliberate, often scholarly approach to heritage, chefs research and honor their parents’ or community’s food traditions while applying professional training from other cuisines (e.g., Italian, French). It is not mere fusion but a conscious act of cultural translation, aiming to broaden diners’ understanding of a cuisine’s diversity and history ^[2][3]. The movement also includes systemic efforts to train the next generation of chefs from underrepresented communities, as seen in South LA ^[1].