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DELICIOSO · AN LA ATLAS OF FOOD ENTRY · CONCEPT · PUBLISHED May 8, 2026 ↘ Open in app

FEATURED ENTRY · CONCEPT

Sool-jib and pocha Korean drinking-house formats

Sool-jib (술집, “alcohol house”) and pocha (포차, short for pojangmacha or “covered cart”) are the two dominant formats of Korean drinking establishments, distinguished by setting, price point, and culinary ambition. Pocha originated as outdoor street tents in 1960s–1980s Korea, where vendors set up makeshift vinyl-covered carts on sidewalks and sold cheap soju alongside quick, salty anju (drinking food) such as jeon (savory pancakes), bossam (boiled pork wraps), and bunsik (snack foods like tteokbokki and fried items). These mobile carts served industrial workers and students, offering a low-cost, informal social space. By the 1990s, pocha evolved into permanent indoor establishments, often called “modern pocha”, that retain the casual, loud atmosphere and affordable menu but operate from fixed locations with more consistent sanitation.

Sool-jib emerged as the upscale indoor counterpart, featuring cleaner tables, a named chef, curated drink lists (premium soju, makgeolli, craft beer), and plated anju presented with more refinement than cart-style offerings. Typical anju across both formats includes jeon (especially kimchi or scallion), fried chicken, kimchi-bacon-pasta (a Korean-Italian fusion staple), bossam, and bunsik dishes like tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) and sundae (blood sausage). Soju and makgeolli remain central; soju is the default spirit, often consumed as somaek (soju mixed with beer), while makgeolli, a milky, lightly sparkling rice wine, is favored for its lower alcohol content and pairing with savory anju.

Modern Los Angeles examples transpose the format directly: Anju House (Koreatown) offers a chef-driven pocha menu with kimchi-jeon and soy-marinated crab; Jilli (Koreatown) presents a sool-jib-style experience with curated soju flights and plated bossam; Soban (Koreatown) includes a dedicated anju section with haemul pajeon (seafood scallion pancake) and makgeolli flights. These venues distinguish themselves from Japanese izakaya, which are more food-focused with a ritualized progression (mukozukeyakimononimono) and less emphasis on drinking as the primary activity.

Dietary notes: Traditional anju is heavily pork- and seafood-based (bossam, fried squid, haemul pajeon), with common allergens including wheat (jeon batter, fried chicken coating), shellfish, and soy. Modern LA versions often offer vegetarian options (kimchi-jeon made without meat, tofu bossam, vegetable bunsik). Halal and kosher certification is rare; pork and shellfish are ubiquitous in classic preparations. Vegan adaptations exist but are not traditional.