FEATURED ENTRY · REGION
Xinjiang
Overview
Xinjiang, officially the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, is a vast, arid region in northwest China, historically a crossroads of the Silk Road. Its cuisine is predominantly that of the Uyghur people, a Turkic ethnic group with Central Asian culinary traditions, but also incorporates influences from Han Chinese, Kazakh, Kyrgyz, and other groups. The cuisine is characterized by bold, simple flavors centered on lamb, wheat, and dairy, with extensive use of cumin, chili, and other spices that distinguish it from the cuisines of eastern China. The region’s harsh continental climate and pastoral heritage shape a food culture built around hearty, grilled meats, hand-pulled noodles, and breads cooked in tandoor ovens.
Geography and pantry
Xinjiang’s geography is dominated by the Taklamakan Desert, the Tian Shan mountain range, and vast grasslands. The climate is extremely arid and continental, with hot summers and bitterly cold winters. These conditions limit agriculture to oasis settlements and river valleys, where wheat, corn, and melons thrive. Livestock herding—especially sheep, goats, and cattle—is central to the economy and diet. Key ingredients include lamb (the primary meat), wheat (for noodles and bread), dairy products like yogurt and cheese, and a variety of melons and grapes. Spices such as cumin, chili flakes, black pepper, and Sichuan peppercorns are used liberally, along with onions, garlic, and tomatoes.
Signature dishes
- Lagman — Hand-pulled noodles served in a rich, spiced lamb and vegetable broth, often with bell peppers, tomatoes, and onions.
- Kawaplap (Kebab) — Skewered and grilled lamb chunks, seasoned with cumin, chili, and salt, often served with naan bread.
- Polo (Pilaf) — A hearty rice dish cooked with lamb, carrots, and cumin, sometimes with raisins or dried fruits.
- Samsa — Baked or fried pastry pockets filled with spiced minced lamb and onions, similar to samosas.
- Naan — Round, leavened flatbread baked in a tandoor oven, often topped with sesame seeds or onions.
- Manta (Manti) — Steamed dumplings filled with lamb and onions, served with yogurt and chili sauce.
- Big Plate Chicken (Dapanji) — A spicy stew of chicken, potatoes, and bell peppers, served over wide hand-pulled noodles.
Cooking techniques
Tandoor (Tonur) Baking
A clay oven used to bake naan bread and samsa, imparting a smoky char and crisp texture. The tandoor is central to Xinjiang baking, with dough slapped onto the hot inner walls.
Grilling over Open Fire
Lamb kebabs are skewered and grilled over charcoal, often seasoned simply with cumin and chili. This technique reflects the nomadic heritage and is a defining feature of street food in Xinjiang.
Hand-Pulling Noodles (Lamian)
Noodle dough is repeatedly stretched and folded to create long, chewy strands, then boiled and added to soups or stir-fries. This technique requires skill and is a hallmark of Uyghur cuisine.
Sub-regions and styles
- Uyghur Cuisine — The dominant culinary tradition of Xinjiang, characterized by lamb, wheat, dairy, and Central Asian spices.
- Kazakh Cuisine — Influences from the Kazakh minority include horse meat dishes, fermented dairy like kumis, and beshbarmak (boiled meat over noodles).
- Han Chinese Xinjiang Cuisine — Adaptations by Han migrants, such as Big Plate Chicken, which blends Chinese stir-fry techniques with local ingredients.
- Kashgar Style — The city of Kashgar is known for its bazaar food, including especially flavorful kebabs and samsa, reflecting its Silk Road history.
- Turpan Style — The Turpan oasis is famous for its grapes and melons, and dishes often incorporate dried fruits and a sweeter profile.
In Los Angeles
Xinjiang cuisine has a modest but growing presence in Los Angeles, primarily in the San Gabriel Valley. Notable restaurants include ‘Dolan’s Uyghur Cuisine’ in Alhambra, which serves lagman, kebabs, and big plate chicken, and ‘Taste of Uyghur’ in Monterey Park. These establishments cater to both the local Uyghur diaspora and adventurous eaters. The cuisine is less widespread than other Chinese regional styles but has gained recognition through food blogs and reviews.
Diaspora context
Significant Uyghur diaspora communities exist in Turkey, Germany, and the United States, particularly in New York, Washington D.C., and Los Angeles. In Central Asia, Uyghur cuisine is found in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan, where many Uyghurs migrated during the 20th century. The cuisine has also spread to other parts of China, with Xinjiang-style restaurants appearing in major cities like Beijing and Shanghai.
Sources
- Diana Kennedy, 'The Cuisines of China' (though primarily focused on other regions, Kennedy's work contextualizes regional Chinese cooking)
- Fuchsia Dunlop, 'Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper' (includes a chapter on Xinjiang and its culinary traditions)
- Laura Kelley, 'The Silk Road Gourmet' (explores historical and modern dishes along the Silk Road, including Xinjiang)
- Nurjan K. Tursun, 'Uyghur Cuisine: A Culinary Journey' (a dedicated cookbook on Uyghur food)
- Paul D. Buell, Eugene N. Anderson, 'A Soup for the Qan: Chinese Dietary Medicine of the Mongol Era as Seen in Hu Sihui's Yinshan Zhengyao' (provides historical context for Central Asian influences on Chinese cuisine)