Ilocos

Overview

Ilocos cuisine originates from the Ilocos Region in northwestern Luzon, Philippines, known for its rugged coastline, dry climate, and strong agricultural traditions. The cuisine is characterized by its simplicity, saltiness, and use of fermented and preserved ingredients, reflecting the region’s history of resourcefulness and trade. Ilocano dishes often feature bagoong (fermented fish or shrimp paste), sukang Iloko (sugarcane vinegar), and a preference for grilled or boiled meats and vegetables. The cuisine has been documented by food historians like Doreen Fernandez and Gilda Cordero-Fernando, who highlight its distinct identity within Philippine culinary traditions.

Geography and pantry

The Ilocos region has a long, narrow topography along the South China Sea, with a dry, rain-shadow climate that supports tobacco, garlic, and sugarcane cultivation. The coastal areas provide abundant seafood, while the interior is known for livestock like goats and pigs. Key ingredients include bagoong (fermented fish or shrimp paste), sukang Iloko (sugarcane vinegar), and native vegetables like saluyot (jute leaves) and marunggay (moringa). The region is also famous for its longganisa (garlicky sausages) and bagnet (deep-fried pork belly).

Signature dishes

• Pinakbet — A vegetable stew with bitter melon, eggplant, okra, and squash, flavored with bagoong and often served with fried fish or pork.
• Bagnet — Deep-fried pork belly that is boiled, dried, and fried until crispy, typically served with a dipping sauce of vinegar and garlic.
• Longganisang Iloko — Garlicky, small pork sausages with a sour note from vinegar, often grilled or fried and served with rice.
• Dinengdeng — A light vegetable soup with fish or shrimp, flavored with bagoong and ginger, often including saluyot and marunggay leaves.
• Paksiw na Bangus — Milkfish cooked in vinegar, garlic, and ginger, sometimes with bitter melon, a classic Ilocano sour dish.
• Igado — A stir-fry of pork liver, heart, and other offal with bell peppers, peas, and carrots in a soy sauce-vinegar base.
• Sinanglaw — A bitter soup made from beef innards, bile, and ginger, often considered an acquired taste.

Cooking techniques

Paksiw

A method of cooking meat or fish in vinegar, garlic, and spices, which preserves the food and imparts a sour flavor. This technique is central to Ilocano cuisine, reflecting the region’s use of vinegar as a preservative in the absence of refrigeration.

Inabraw

A technique of boiling vegetables in water or broth with bagoong, creating a light soup that highlights the natural flavors of the vegetables. It is a simple, everyday cooking method that showcases the region’s agricultural produce.

Deep-frying (for Bagnet)

A multi-step process of boiling, drying, and deep-frying pork belly to achieve an extremely crispy skin and tender meat. This technique is a signature of Ilocos and requires careful temperature control.

Sub-regions and styles

• Ilocos Norte — Known for bagnet and garlic longganisa, with a stronger Spanish influence due to historical settlements.
• Ilocos Sur — Famous for pinakbet and the use of sukang Iloko, with a focus on vegetable dishes and seafood.
• La Union — Coastal area known for fresh seafood and a milder version of Ilocano dishes, influenced by neighboring Pangasinan.
• Pangasinan — Though not part of the Ilocos Region proper, it shares culinary similarities, especially with its own version of bagoong and the use of milkfish.

In Los Angeles

Ilocano cuisine has a notable presence in Los Angeles, particularly in the Historic Filipinotown neighborhood and along Temple Street. Restaurants like ‘Lasita’ and ‘Kuya Lord’ offer modern takes on Ilocano classics such as bagnet and pinakbet. The Filipino diaspora in LA includes many Ilocanos, and their culinary traditions are celebrated at events like the ‘Filipino Food Month’ and in markets like ‘Seafood City’ where bagoong and longganisa are readily available.

Diaspora context

Ilocano cuisine has traveled with the large Ilocano diaspora, particularly to Hawaii, California, and other parts of the United States. In Hawaii, Ilocano dishes like pinakbet and dinengdeng are common in local Filipino restaurants. Ilocano migrants also brought their cuisine to Guam, the Northern Mariana Islands, and other Pacific islands, where it has blended with local ingredients.