Shanghai (municipality)

Overview

Shanghai cuisine, known as Hu cuisine (沪菜), is a distinct culinary tradition from China’s largest city and its surrounding Jiangnan region. It emphasizes the use of soy sauce, sugar, rice wine, and dark vinegar, resulting in dishes that are often sweet, savory, and rich. The cuisine is heavily influenced by the abundance of freshwater fish and seafood from the Yangtze River Delta and the East China Sea. Shanghai’s history as a treaty port and international settlement also introduced Western and other Chinese regional influences, creating a unique fusion that is both traditional and cosmopolitan. Key characteristics include the use of ‘red cooking’ (hongshao), a technique of braising meats in soy sauce and sugar to achieve a deep mahogany color, and a preference for fresh, seasonal ingredients prepared with subtlety.

Geography and pantry

Shanghai is located on the eastern coast of China at the mouth of the Yangtze River, with a flat, low-lying terrain and a humid subtropical climate. The region’s waterways, including the Huangpu River and numerous canals, provide abundant freshwater fish, crabs, and eels. The fertile alluvial soil supports rice, leafy greens, and bamboo shoots. Key ingredients include Shanghai bok choy (qingjiangcai), hairy crab (dazhaxie), freshwater fish like mandarin fish and yellow croaker, and preserved vegetables like xuelihong. Soy sauce, sugar, and rice wine are fundamental seasonings, along with dark vinegar and star anise.

Signature dishes

• Xiaolongbao (Soup Dumplings) — Steamed buns filled with pork and a rich, gelatinized broth that liquefies upon steaming.
• Shengjianbao (Pan-Fried Pork Buns) — Yeasted buns filled with pork and gelatin, pan-fried to a crispy bottom and topped with sesame and scallions.
• Hongshao Rou (Red-Braised Pork Belly) — Pork belly braised in soy sauce, sugar, and rice wine until tender and caramelized.
• Xie Fen Jin (Crab Meat and Tofu) — Silken tofu stir-fried with fresh crab meat and roe in a light sauce.
• Qingzheng Xianyu (Steamed Fresh Fish) — Whole fish, typically mandarin fish or yellow croaker, steamed with ginger, scallions, and soy sauce.
• Liangban Haidai (Cold Seaweed Salad) — Tossed seaweed with garlic, sesame oil, and vinegar, often served as an appetizer.
• Congyou Banmian (Scallion Oil Noodles) — Wheat noodles tossed in a fragrant oil made from fried scallions, soy sauce, and sugar.

Cooking techniques

Hongshao (Red Braising)

A slow-braising technique using soy sauce, sugar, and rice wine to cook meats and tofu until they achieve a deep red-brown color and rich, sweet-savory flavor. This method is central to Shanghai cuisine, exemplified by dishes like hongshao rou.

Qingzheng (Steaming)

Gentle steaming over boiling water to cook delicate ingredients like fish, dumplings, and buns. This technique preserves natural flavors and textures, essential for dishes like xiaolongbao and steamed fish.

Shengjian (Pan-Frying)

A two-stage cooking method where yeast dough buns are first pan-fried in oil to crisp the bottom, then steamed with water to cook the filling. This creates a contrast of crispy and soft textures, as in shengjianbao.

Sub-regions and styles

• Benbang Cuisine — The traditional local style of Shanghai, characterized by heavy use of soy sauce, sugar, and oil, with dishes like hongshao rou and xiaolongbao.
• Haipai Cuisine — A fusion style that emerged in the early 20th century, incorporating Western and other Chinese regional influences, often seen in Shanghai’s fine dining and banquet dishes.
• Jiangnan Cuisine — The broader culinary tradition of the Yangtze River Delta, which includes Shanghai, Suzhou, and Hangzhou, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients and delicate flavors.
• Nongji Cai (Farmhouse Cuisine) — A rustic, home-style cooking tradition from Shanghai’s rural outskirts, featuring simple, hearty dishes like braised pork with preserved vegetables.

In Los Angeles

Shanghai cuisine has a notable presence in Los Angeles, particularly in the San Gabriel Valley, home to a large Chinese diaspora. Din Tai Fung, a Taiwanese chain famous for xiaolongbao, has multiple locations in LA, though its style is more Taiwanese. For authentic Shanghai-style dishes, restaurants like Shanghai No. 1 Seafood Village in Alhambra and Mei Long Village in San Gabriel offer classic dishes such as xiaolongbao, shengjianbao, and hongshao rou. The Monterey Park area also features several Shanghainese bakeries and noodle shops.

Diaspora context

Shanghai cuisine has traveled with Chinese diaspora communities worldwide, particularly to Southeast Asia, North America, and Australia. In cities like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, and Bangkok, Shanghainese restaurants serve adapted versions of xiaolongbao and red-braised dishes. In the United States, New York City’s Chinatown and Flushing have a strong Shanghainese presence, with restaurants like Joe’s Shanghai and Shanghai Café. The cuisine is also popular in Japan, where xiaolongbao has been widely adopted.