Piedmont

Overview

Piedmont (Piemonte) is a northwestern Italian region bordered by the Alps and France. Its cuisine is characterized by rich, earthy flavors, a strong tradition of slow cooking, and an emphasis on high-quality local ingredients. The region is famous for its truffles, particularly the white truffle of Alba, as well as its wines (Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera) and hazelnuts. Piedmontese cooking is often described as robust and hearty, with dishes like bagna càuda (a hot dip of garlic, anchovies, and olive oil) and brasato al Barolo (beef braised in Barolo wine). The cuisine reflects both its mountainous terrain and its proximity to France, incorporating butter and cream more than other Italian regions. Notable food historians such as Marcella Hazan and Carol Field have documented Piedmontese traditions, emphasizing its role as a cornerstone of Italian gastronomy.

Geography and pantry

Piedmont is bordered by the Alps to the north and west, with rolling hills in the central and southern areas. The Po River runs through the region, providing fertile plains for rice cultivation (the region is Italy’s top rice producer). The climate is continental, with cold winters and warm summers, ideal for growing Nebbiolo grapes for Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The hills of Langhe and Monferrato are UNESCO World Heritage sites, known for their vineyards and truffle-rich soils. Key ingredients include white truffles (Tuber magnatum), hazelnuts (Tonda Gentile delle Langhe), Castelmagno cheese, Robiola, and beef from the Piedmontese cattle breed. Rice, particularly Arborio and Carnaroli, is used in risottos. Butter and cream are more common than olive oil, reflecting French influence.

Signature dishes

• Bagna Càuda — Warm dip of garlic, anchovies, olive oil, and butter, served with raw vegetables.
• Brasato al Barolo — Beef braised in Barolo wine with vegetables and herbs.
• Vitello Tonnato — Cold sliced veal with a creamy tuna-caper sauce.
• Agnolotti del Plin — Stuffed pasta with roasted meat and vegetable filling, served with butter and sage.
• Risotto al Barolo — Risotto cooked with Barolo wine, butter, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.
• Tajarin — Thin egg pasta ribbons, often served with butter and truffle or ragù.
• Bunet — Chocolate and amaretti custard pudding.
• Gianduiotto — Chocolate-hazelnut candy, named after Gianduja, a carnival character.

Cooking techniques

Brasato

A slow braising technique, typically using red wine (Barolo) to tenderize tougher cuts of beef. The meat is marinated overnight in wine, herbs, and vegetables, then cooked slowly for hours until fork-tender. This method defines Piedmontese Sunday dinners and showcases the region’s affinity for rich, wine-infused dishes.

Bollito Misto

A mixed boil of various meats (beef, veal, pork, chicken, and sometimes cotechino sausage) simmered with vegetables and herbs. The meats are served with a variety of sauces, including mostarda di Cremona and salsa verde. This technique highlights Piedmont’s tradition of using every part of the animal and is a centerpiece of festive meals.

Frittura

Deep-frying, particularly of vegetables (like zucchini flowers) and meats (like rabbit or veal). Piedmontese frittura is light and crisp, often using a batter of flour and eggs. It is a common technique for antipasti and secondi, reflecting the region’s love for textures.

Sub-regions and styles

• Langhe — Hilly area known for Barolo and Barbaresco wines, white truffles, and hazelnuts.
• Monferrato — Rolling hills with Barbera and Grignolino wines, and hearty dishes like bagna càuda.
• Canavese — Northern area near Turin, known for rice dishes and the Erbaluce wine.
• Alpine Valleys — Mountainous areas with dairy products, polenta, and game meats.
• Turin — Capital city, known for chocolate, coffee (bicerin), and refined cuisine with French influence.

In Los Angeles

Piedmontese cuisine has a modest but notable presence in Los Angeles. Several Italian restaurants in the city feature Piedmontese dishes, such as Osteria Mozza (Nancy Silverton) which offers agnolotti and brasato. The restaurant Sotto in Beverly Hills (now closed) was known for its Southern Italian focus, but Piedmontese specialties like vitello tonnato appear on menus at places like Bestia and Felix Trattoria. The Eataly in Century City has a Piedmontese section with wines and products. However, there is no dedicated Piedmontese restaurant; the cuisine is often subsumed under broader Northern Italian or regional Italian menus. The Los Angeles Italian diaspora includes Piedmontese immigrants, but their culinary influence is less distinct compared to Southern Italian communities.

Diaspora context

Piedmontese emigrants, particularly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, settled in Argentina, Brazil, and the United States. In Argentina, they influenced the cuisine with dishes like vitello tonnato (known as ‘vitel toné’) and the use of butter and cream. In Brazil, Piedmontese immigrants contributed to the development of the wine industry in the south. In the US, Piedmontese traditions are less visible than other Italian regional cuisines, but they persist in family-run restaurants and through the promotion of products like truffles and Barolo wine.