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DELICIOSO · AN LA ATLAS OF FOOD ENTRY · DISH · PUBLISHED May 11, 2026 ↘ Open in app

FEATURED ENTRY · DISH

Grandma pizza: the Long Island home-kitchen square (a New York-Italian-American footnote in LA)

The grandma pie is the rare pizza style that is named after exactly the person who invented it. Before home ovens reliably ran hot, and before everyone had a pizza stone, Italian-American grandmothers on Long Island made their family pizza in the one vessel every kitchen owned: a rectangular sheet pan, slicked with olive oil. The dough went in, got pressed thin, fried-crisp on the bottom in that oil, and came out a square, blistered, no-fuss pizza that fed the table. Pizzerias eventually put it on the menu and called it what it was — grandma pizza — and it has been quietly spreading out of Nassau and Suffolk counties ever since. [2]

The technique, which is the whole identity

Grandma pizza is defined by how it is made more than by any single topping:

  • Sheet pan, lots of olive oil. The dough is stretched (not pressed by machine) into an oiled rectangular pan. As it bakes, the bottom essentially shallow-fries — that’s where the signature crisp-and-chew comes from.
  • Thin, not bready. A grandma pie does not rise into a tall, airy crumb. It stays relatively thin and dense-ish — closer to a cracker-fried focaccia than to a pillowy Sicilian slice.
  • Crushed tomato over cheese, often dressed after the bake. The classic build is garlic in or on the dough, dollops of fresh (low-moisture or fresh) mozzarella scattered rather than blanketed, crushed canned tomatoes spooned on — frequently the tomato and a hit of olive oil, oregano, basil, and grated pecorino go on after it comes out of the oven, so the tomato stays bright and raw-tasting.
  • Cut into squares. Like its Sicilian cousin, it’s a square pie, sold by the slice.

The effect is a slice that’s crispy underneath, chewy in the middle, garlicky, with concentrated tomato — light enough to eat two pieces. [2]

How it differs from Sicilian and from Detroit

These three square pizzas get conflated constantly, but they’re distinct:

  • vs. the American “Sicilian slice”: the Sicilian slice is thick and bready — a tall, fluffy, heavily-cheesed pan pizza. Grandma is thinner, less doughy, oil-crisped, with dolloped (not wall-to-wall) mozzarella and brighter tomato. If the slice is more than an inch tall and uniformly cheesy, it’s Sicilian, not grandma.
  • vs. Detroit-style: Detroit pizza is built in a steel pan, with brick cheese pushed to the edges so it caramelizes into a lacy “frico” crust, and racing stripes of sauce on top. Grandma has no cheese-frico edge — the border is bare crisped dough, not burnt-cheese lace. Detroit is also generally taller and airier inside. Grandma is the thin, restrained one of the three. [2]

The LA cameo

In Los Angeles, grandma pizza is a menu item, never a restaurant. Delicioso’s pizza survey found it offered as a square option at a small number of New-York-style shops — Prime Pizza, Lamonica’s, Apollonia’s among them — alongside their round NY slices and (sometimes) a Sicilian square. There is no LA pizzeria whose concept is “we are a grandma-pie place.” [1]

The taxonomy decision

For that reason Delicioso did not add a pizza-grandma place_type — the same call made for pizza-sicilian. A place_type needs a cluster of restaurants that identify as that thing; grandma pizza in LA is a side option on NY-style menus, so creating the bin would leave it nearly empty and misrepresent the scene. Grandma pizza is therefore documented here as a dish-wiki entry under the italian-american domain, with the LA shops that serve it tagged at the dish level (and otherwise classified as pizza-ny-style, which is the family it belongs to). The decision is revisitable if a dedicated grandma-pie shop opens. [1]

Notes for reviewers

  • “Originated on Long Island” is the consensus origin story (mid-20th-century Italian-American home cooking; the restaurant version is usually credited to Umberto’s in New Hyde Park, with the pie put on the menu and named “grandma” in the 1980s, though King Umberto of Elmont and Da Angelo of Albertson also claim the first Long Island pie) — now cited [2].
  • “Tomato added after baking” is common but not universal; some shops sauce before. Phrasing already hedges with “often.”
  • Confirm Prime / Lamonica’s / Apollonia’s still list a grandma pie before publishing.

Sources

  1. Internal synthesis — cache/by-topic/pizza-style-la-mapping/synthesis.md (2026-05-10); the LA-shop list (Prime Pizza, Lamonica's, Apollonia's offering a grandma square) and the 'no `pizza-grandma` place_type' taxonomy call are from this synthesis — confirm those shops still list a grandma pie before publish
  2. Grandma pizza — Long Island Italian-American origin: popularized at Umberto's in New Hyde Park (Umberto Corteo, opened 1965; brother Carlo's off-menu mother-style sheet-pan pie; named 'grandma' in the 1980s; prominence at a 1989 local competition), with King Umberto of Elmont and Da Angelo of Albertson also claiming the first pie; technique and the distinctions from the American Sicilian slice and Detroit-style. Mashed, 'The Untold Truth Of Grandma Pizza' — https://www.mashed.com/259209/the-untold-truth-of-grandma-pizza/ ; Tasting Table, 'Grandma Pie Is The Pizza Style You've Been Missing Out On' — https://www.tastingtable.com/695165/grandma-pizza-pie-new-york/